Invite, Open House 1508

Open House
Thursday March 4th
1508 6th Street NW
photos by Abby Greenawalt
Beef Harvesting at Eco Friendly Foods.

These photos offer a glimpse into an artisinal meat processing operation–very different from the corporate plants that process most of our beef today. As Small Farms struggle to get clean healthy food to us, Eco Friendly Foods offers a bridge for Farmers and Chefs

Bev, the owner of Eco Friendly Foods will be at our home to discuss his work
Abby will join to discuss her work as well

We have done some writing about this subject...you can access it via these links:
Transparent-Food
Grassroots, Eco Friendly Foods
Photo Exhibit

Thursday March 4, 7:00-9:00 pm
1508 6th Street, NW

Hope you can join,
sidra
sidrapractice.com
sidraforman.com

Flower Samples

The day before the snow, which seems like a long time ago at this point... I did sample centerpiece arrangements for a bride who is getting married in March.

I like doing samples...it ensures that my clients and I are thinking the same thing. I think the main reason I like doing flowers for events and weddings specifically is the collaboration...This is the way it typically goes...After preliminary contact with a new client which is often via email we often have a phone conversation. During the conversation we talk about broad ideas, venues and general scope of the event. After the initial conversation we usually set up an in person meeting. I always ask for clients to bring or send in advance any images of flowers that they like or do not like...important images are ones that have an element that is appealing, color, feeling, specific flowers...or on the other hand something that they want to stay away from...for example "this arrangement is too uptight" or "I dont like the way those spikey things stick out of the bouquet"...Other helpful images are of the wedding dress if it is a wedding and tablecloth samples if they have been picked.

If I have enough information in advance I gather photos of arrangements that have elements that I think would work for the event we are planning, images of specific flowers that I suggest using based on color, season and overall mood of the event. I often pull up images of or actual containers that we could use for centerpieces.

At the meeting we go through specifics like how many arrangements, if it is a wedding the vision of the spot where vows will be exchanged and I ask for a few words to describe the feeling of the event. With flowers seasonality is important so for example if all the images that appeal are of peonies but the event is scheduled for September we talk about how to get a full lush flower feeling using hydrangea, dahlias or some other flowers....This is the fun part...we talk about ideas and together figure out how to create an overall feeling. We also talk about budget. With flowers, unlike other elements of an event, more is usually better...however if budget is an issue we discuss how to get the most flower impact within the given budget.

This can be anywhere from a week before the event to more than a year before the event. If there is a long time before the event I request that the client continues to forward me images so I can keep them in a file in case there is a shift in vision. For large events I always try to schedule a time to do a sample arrangement. Often this can be done in conjunction with a catering tasting so we can actually look at the flowers with linens, plates...or choose these elements with the flowers there to help inform the decision. If any adjustments are necessary this is the time to make them.

A few weeks before the event we have a final meeting on the phone or in person to confirm time line as well as other details.

Path Valley Annual Growers Meeting


We always are asked where we got our produce...especially this time of year. The Amish cooperative in Pennsylvania, Path Valley, is our primary source for produce throughout the year. We have been working with them since they were first established about 15 years ago. We were lucky enough to visit a few of the farms the summer before last.

The way it works is that Katie who manages the cooperative gets a projected availability list from the various members of the cooperative and passes it on to chefs in the DC area. We order from the list and then Gordon who has been driving for the cooperative since it started delivers with 2 young Amish helpers once or twice a week depending on the season. Stan a resident of the valley has the job of picking up produce from the various farms the afternoon before the DC delivery. Two young Amish women work at the dock sorting the various orders. Katie comes by late in the day to help sort out the inevitable problems. The work on the dock starts at noon and in the summer when the orders are large and the produce is plentiful they often work until midnight.

As you can imagine the coordination to get crops to be consecutively available throughout the year with many different farms is complicated. I talked with Katie tonight and she told me all about the annual growers meeting last week that is essential in the process. The planning begins around Christmas time when growers fill out a form committing to what crops they are going to grow, which varieties and how much they plan to produce per week for how many weeks. Katie takes all this information and this year with a lot of help from one of the growers wives consolidated it. After that there is a board meeting where 4 growers and Katie meet to assess the projections and figure out if there is enough, too much or the correct amount of individual items.

This information and the financial report of the previous year make up the content of the annual growing meeting which can last from 6-9 hours. She said that both the husband and wife from each cooperative farm attend. There is excitement surrounding the event. The farmers do not get out often. Outings consist of church visits every other week, weddings in the fall, a couple school events per year, a couple quiltings each winter and about 2 trips a year to a large store such as Walmart to buy the relatively few items that they do not produce at home. The growing meeting is an event and a rare one in that couples attend without their children and spend the day together. Most arrive with a picnic lunch and in addition the host family usually make a large stew. This year the hosts made venison stew with venison bologna. Throughout the day some additional snacks are served and there is a constant supply of highly sweetened mint tea that is made from dried fresh mint that is plentiful in the valley.

Katie says the atmosphere is friendly and lively. There is sharing of seed catalogs. Favorite catalogs include Johnnys, Baker Creek, E & R (no website) and Seed Savers. There is one copy of the large version of the Seed Savers Catalog that the members share.

Jake the largest producer of beets and carrots in the cooperative is moving to Wisconsin so the crops he has grown in the past were divided between farmers who already are producing those crops. Issac is a grower who sticks with all different varieties of potatoes. When asked if he wanted to try something new this year he declined. However there is another family that always anxiously listens to suggestions and plants large crops of new items at the slightest suggestion…last year it was cipolline onions this year it was red shallots. Between all of the member farmers nearly every crop and variety of crop that can be grown in the climate is grown…but new this coming season will be cornichons (which were a test crop last year, cardoons (which were not successful in the past), yacons (which have not been grown in the valley for a couple of years) and a new variety of strawberries which will produce fruit into October.

The meeting can also yield information. For example this year the main producer of Russian Banana Fingerling Potatoes had a crop failure and they have not been available since November. When this was mentioned at the meeting another grower offered 700 pounds that he had available for sale. He intended to grow the potatoes just for his household but had, had an unexpected high yield.

There was celebration this year because despite the economy the Cooperative had their best year ever. The cooperative invested in a new cooler at the loading dock and have already been able to pay off the loan that they took out in the spring.

This time of year we are enjoying Path Valley root vegetables, greens, black walnuts…we eagerly anticipate the spring crops!

Happy Birthday Derrick!

Saturday night we hosted a birthday party for Derrick. We first met Derrick when he was 15 years old. He worked with us in the kitchen of our restaurant Rupperts through high school until he went away to college. After college he returned to DC and since then we have worked with him on a variety of projects...he turned 30 last week. Derrick is not the only person we work with regularly that we have known with for about the same amount of time...JT, Todd and several of the farmers have been friends for awhile. Each is essential in contributing while simultaneously making our practice both fluid and fun. Despite the snow and fairly treacherous roads pretty much everyone showed up. There was a great group of people including parents, relatives, new and old friends. George Burton, A fantastic piano player from New York, came down and played a soothing quiet style of jazz that set the tone for the night.

This was also the first time since we have started doing Home Restaurants that we had a group mingling about, coming and going and casually eating all night long. Usually here at 1508 we do seated dinners, but after Saturday we are certain that the venue works for other types of gatherings as well. The next one we have scheduled will be a photography exhibition of Abby Greenawalts Photos. The photos document the artisanal harvesting of animals at Eco Friendly Foods. The event will be open to all and more details will follow shortly.

Saturday night Derrick chose the menu...He wanted everything to be finger food...easy, casual and accessible:

Chicken and Sweet Potato Salad
Beef Strip Loin on Roasted Potato
Grilled Shrimp
Cabot Clothbound Cheese
Carrot Dip
White Bean and Chervil Dip
Spelt Baguettes

Salty Rosemary Walnut Biscotti
Lavander Oatmeal Cookies

and the Birthday Cake,
Soft Gingerbread with Lemon Curd and Walnut Brittle

Dreaming of Next Summers Dahlia Garden

Photo by Ralph Alswang

Last spring we planted the abandoned lot next door to us with tomatoes and lettuces. There was a misunderstanding and everything got pulled up and we replanted again with lettuces and cooking greens. At the end of the season we turned a bunch of coffee grounds and compost into the soil to ready it for next seasons planting. Recently with all of the seed catalogs arriving and a couple of warmish winter days we started plotting our 2010 garden...We have decided that this year we want to dedicate the empty plot next door to dahlias. We have dabbled in planting dahlias but never given them a proper spot in our garden and do not know much about growing them.

I do use lots of dahlias from July through mid-October that I buy from Bob Wollam. The dahlias he grows are phenomenal and are the focal point of most of my flower arrangements while they are in season. Last week Bob stopped by and I asked him if he thought the lot next door would be a good spot for dahlias. In addition to his farm in rural Virginia Bob has been planting urban gardens for decades and was very enthusiastic. He has promised to lend his expertise to the project.

We have a few other empty lots close by that we intend to plant with food and flowers this spring as well...

a lunch, a tea, a dinner and another dinner

photo Ralph Alswang

In the past 5 days at 1508 we have served lunch for the host committee of a Center For Inspired Teaching event, served tea to Alice Waters, had a full Home Restaurant and last night in collaboration with Joan Nathan we hosted and cooked for one of the Sunday Suppers that raised money for Martha's Table and D.C. Central Kitchen. A secondary goal of the dinner last night was to prompt discussion about food issues including hunger and sustainability.

Fresh in my mind is last nights dinner which was inspiring and thought provoking. Throughout the dinner and the day today it has stimulated conversation about bridging the gap between
actual dining experience and the way food is produced...In addition to Joan Nathan dinner guests included Robert Egger of D.C. Central Kitchen and Bev Eggleston of Eco Friendly Foods all of whom instigated and encouraged meaningful dialogue.

I can not think of two individuals in Washington D.C. doing more to bridge the gap between talking and doing than Bev (who runs an artisnal butchery practice commited to resisting corporate processing and factory farming) and Robert (who runs DC Central Kitchen, Fresh Start, V3, CKP...committed to feeding and training Washingtonians in culinary practices, community involvement...) they understand the importance of both action and politics and their very different approaches to the same problem of feeding and eating across all economic levels are inspiring... leave us wanting more... More than anything Bev and Robert offer us options, perspectives, help us to pause and in that form a resistance to status quo...

If you are going to give to any local charity give to DC Central Kitchen...

If you are going to eat meat get it from Bev at Eco Friendly Foods, at the Dupont Farmers Market EVERY Sunday...

John and I worked on the menu with Joan Nathan taking inspiration for many of the dishes from her forthcoming book...

Congratulations to Joan her hard work on these dinners that raised Over a Hundred Thousand Dollars for Martha's Table and DC Central Kitchen...

Passing
Lamb Chops with Preserved Lemons*
Apple and Parsnip Soup*
Beef Tongue with Capers*
Winter Squash Gratin
Moroccan Orange and Black Olive Salad*

Seated
Roasted Rockfish with Beets, Scrambled Eggs and Chives
Layered Turnip, Black Walnut and Wild Mushroom with Roasted Garlic Sauce
Roasted Chicken Thigh with Truffle, Mashed Potatoes, Shallots and Greens*
Batch 19 Cheese with Olive Oil Cracker
Grapefruit Soup with Figs and Mint*
Soft Gingerbread with Frozen Coconut, Chocolate Sauce and Hickory Nut Nougatine*

Small Bites
Pistachio and Cardamom Cookies*
Chocolate Chocolate Chip Drops
Sweet and Salty Pumpkin Seeds
Lavender Oatmeal Thins

*inspired by Joan Nathans Forthcoming Book, Quiches, Kugels and Couscous: In Search of the Cooking of the Jews of France (Knopf, fall 2010)

The Cotton Man


For years I used cotton on sticks in arrangements especially in the winter. I love the cotton on its own as well as in arrangements. Often I would use it during the holidays mixed with ilex berries. I have not seen cotton on sticks available for several years. Every once in awhile I ask various suppliers about getting cotton but no one has come through with it.

Last week I met with Maria Cooke of Ritzy Bee, Carin and Julia from Hitched, Seana from Design Cuisine and Kelly Seizert about a display we are collaborating on for this weekends Washingtonian Bride and Groom Event at the Mandarin Oriental. Maria had made some inspiration boards and one of them was full of cotton. I became newly obsessed with finding some.

I once again asked several local sources, none of whom could locate any...then I emailed someone who sells wholesale branches in Brooklyn. He told me he did not have any but that, "the cotton man" would. I called the cotton man and he answered the phone and said, "cotton man here." I giggled!

I discussed my cotton needs and the fact that I was in a hurry. I emailed him about 9:00 at night and by 10:00 pm I had a UPS confirmation that my cotton would be delivered in two days. I am quite excited for the package that should be arriving tomorrow!

Invitation, Jacqulyn Maissoneuve Exhibition

We met Jackie late this summer. She is a senior in photojournalism at the Corcoran and asked if she could photograph our family as part of her senior thesis. Originally the thesis was going to be on a bunch of different people living in D.C. who were conscious of there relationship with the earth in one way or another. The scope of the thesis narrowed and she called one night in early August to ask if we would be willing to be the sole subject of thesis which would entail her photographing us regularly through November. Not really sure what we were getting into we said yes.

We immediately liked Jackie she is hardworking, talented, serious, fun and easy to be around. The fall ended up being a very busy time for us and we became accustomed to having her around lots. Her constant supply of photos was a great addition to our blog and something that we looked forward to receiving.

Today we got an invitation in the mail for her Senior Thesis Exhibition which runs from Wednesday February 3rd to Sunday February 7th with an opening reception on Thursday Feburary 4th from 6-8 at Gallery 31 at the Corcoran College of Art and Design. The invitation is fabulous, great photo, beautiful paper, a pack of sorrel seeds with planting directions and a quote from me that was shocking (but not in a bad way) to see in print...

"Everything I do is interconnected and constantly evolving. This applies not only to human connections but to non human ones as well... making a salad dressing where oil and vinegar emulsify, enhancing the garden soil content so flowers and food grow and sharing a meal with my family. Day to day I find pleasure through my practice, where there is no clear line between work and play, I find energy from the many dynamic, connected yet disparate elements."

A couple nights ago Jackie came by and gave us hundreds of prints which is just a fraction of the thousands of photos that she took. Looking through them we started to talk about pairing the photos with the blog posts that were written at the same time the photographs were being taken which include seasonal menus, recipes, gardening, flower arranging, musings...maybe this is the structure of the book that we have been talking about writing?

Pairing Food with California Red Wines

Photo Jacqulyn Maisonneuve

Tom our wine guy is not a fan of "big" California red wines. He helps us pair wine with our food to enhance the food without ever overpowering. We generally do not use California reds because many are high in alcohol content, lack acidity and can have strong flavors of both vanilla and/or oak. These characteristics do not allow a wine to have a balance between sweetness and acidity which results in overpowering the taste of food.

Tom told me that over the holidays he had three bottles of California red. One of these bottles he really enjoyed. It was a zinfandel from an obscure area in Trinity County, well north of Napa recommended to him by a customer Phil from The Wishing Well in Easton, Maryland. Tom told me this wine had beautiful balance with no discernible excess sugar and some nice acidity. The wine was from R. Merlo Estate Vineyards and he told me he would have consumed the whole bottle had his father not helped him!

The other two wines were not such a pleasure they were big, grapey and sweet syrahs that he did not think would compliment any food. The second two wines had over 16% alcohol content. The high alcohol content is a result of grapes being left on the vine until they are ultra ripe which usually leads to high alcohol and ultimately out of balance wines. Tom's favorite California wines are usually from areas near the cost where fog rolls in at night. This helps cool the vines and helps the grapes develop some acidity as they mature on the vine.

I asked why California winemakers let grapes get so ripe, he explain that it is partially climate and other growing conditions. There is also another factor, the issue of ratings and "points" from critics like Robert Parker. Parker tends to love "big" wines and gives them higher scores. Winemakers know this and many will try to make wines in that style hoping to get such scores for their wines.

As always I appreciated the information I got from Tom and am looking forward to tasting the (Raquillet) Mercurey 1er 'Les Vasees' 2007 that we will be serving with local rockfish at our next Home Restaurant on Friday January 22nd.

Planning a Menu

Photo Jacqulyn Maissoneuve

Planning a menu never starts with a blank piece of paper it begins with conversations...

Last weekend I saw Fadia at the Dupont Market and she told me she expected to be seeing some local wild mushrooms in the next couple of weeks. I emailed Jim at Prime Seafood to confirm that there would be rockfish available next week and that it was looking good. I called Katie at Path Valley to see what vegetables are available. I got her availability list and found out about some new honey that one of the members of the cooperative was selling. After those conversations John and I came up with a preliminary menu for our upcoming Home Restaurant on Friday January 22 (we still have a few seats available). With the menu in hand I called Tom Kiszka the wine importer who helps us match wines with food at our Home Restaurant to get some wine suggestions I shared with him the current version of the menu and he came back with ideas for wine pairings. As we get closer both the food and wines may shift but for now this is what we are thinking... To cook is always a reaching out way beyond our minds as well as our kitchens... we are fortunate to be connected to such a creative network...

Passing
Seared Sea scallops
Roasted Eco Friendly Foods Chicken
Beef Tongue with Capers
Roasted Parsnip
Spaghetti with Micro Greens
Cauliflower Soup

Bay Leaf infused Vodka Martini
(Jean Masson) Savoie Apremont Vielles Vignes 2008

Seated
Egg in the Hole with Beet Ketchup, Path Valley egg fried in whole wheat bread
(Pascal Granger) Chenas 2007 (all gamay...a cru of beaujolais)

Turnip with Wild Mushroom, Black Walnut and Garlic Broth
(Olivier Morin) Chitry BLANC 2007 (all Chard...from the Chablis region)

Roasted Rockfish with Mashed Potatoes...
(Raquillet) Mercurey 1er 'Les Vasees' 2007 (all pinot noir, southern burgundy)

Cabot Farmhouse Cheddar with Olive Oil Cracker

Warm Apple Sauce

Soft Gingerbread with Chocolate and Coconut
(Tissot) Cremant du Jura Brut ROSE NV

Cookies

video blogging

We had a lot of fun experimenting with doing some videos this weekend. If you watch the first one we did last night about garlic you need to know I am not drunk, I just could not stop cracking up. I know that the sound is a bit off but we rectified that on the next one. Our hope is to catalog our practice using a short, about 90 second, format that is hopefully both informative and entertaining. We will be doing cooking, flower and garden tips. The video shorts will show up on the side bar of this blog and can also be accessed through YouTube. We welcome any suggestions about content and presentation.

Sunday Supper January 24, 2010


We are excited to be hosting and cooking a Sunday Supper on January 24 at 1508 to benefit Martha's Table and DC Central Kitchen. This event is a follow up to last years successful Art, Food, Hope fundraising dinners that were initiated by Alice Waters during inauguration last year. Chefs are being paired with other chefs to collaborate on dinners being served in 14 different homes around the city on the same night. We are very excited that we are paired with Joan Nathan for the event. We met with Joan today and discussed menu, ingredients and including some recipes from her soon to be released cookbook.

Tonight John and I are working on the menu details, which are not quite complete, and he made the above sketch of the first three seated courses.

Emerson on Flowers

Photo Jacqulyn Maisonneuve

Reading Emerson last night and found this quote about flowers:

If at any time it comes into my head that a present is due from me to somebody, I am puzzled what to give, until the opportunity is gone. Flowers and fruits are always fit presents; flowers, because they are a proud assertion that a ray of beauty out values all the utilities of the world. These gay natures contrast with the somewhat stern countenance of ordinary nature: they are like music heard out of a work-house. Nature does not cocker us; we are children, not pets; she is not fond; everything is dealt to us without fear or favor, after severe universal laws. Yet these delicate flowers look like the frolic and interference of love and beauty.

Flowering Branches


Today I got the first flowering quince branches of the season. Throughout the year I often think...all I need in this spot is a big vase of flowering quince, pear, cherry, dogwood, tulip magnolia...

Although with flowers these days it is possible to get lots of flowers throughout the year that were previously only available in specific seasons flowering branches are only available from now through sometime in May. The availability is completely dependent on the weather and when they open is always a bit of a guessing game. Most springs I sweat over branches opening enough or too much for various weddings and events. You can somewhat control the opening with heat, warm water and sun but despite much trial and error there is a bit of luck...or, lots of branches collected in different stages of openness to ensure that there will be plenty with blossoms at their most beautiful at the time you need them.

The quince I received today came from North Carolina and I will continue to get them from further and further north until they are available locally. After that I will be able to get them from as far north as Upstate New York before the season ends, usually in March. If the weather ever warms up over the next month or so I will start to see buds on my white forsythia in the garden. I will have a choice of leaving them outside to develop blooms naturally or cutting it and bringing it inside to encourage blooms sooner. We bought the white forsythia years ago through a catalog and it is not very common although it is a favorite of mine. Forced yellow forsythia will also be available soon and although I do not use it often I love large bunches of it tightly packed into old urns and metal containers.

Usually around Valentines Day double pink cherry branches are available with absolutely no color showing. It often takes about three weeks of warm indoor temperatures and hot water to get them to open but they are defenitely worth the wait. Usually they are available as well as other cherry varieties in white and single blooms throughout March and into early April. Other favorites that I look forward to that will be fleetingly available depending on both weather and suppliers are pear and tulip magnolia both favorites and both very fragile. Last is the dogwood which generally shows up in late April and is gone by the middle to the end of May...and then we must wait for quince all over again.