Home Dinners...at other peoples homes

Home Restaurants are where we feed most people these days...It continues to be a pleasure welcoming people to our home, sharing our favorite foods and wines and creating an in between place to dine and visit.

In December a few people who eat at 1508 often and who I have cooked for and done flowers for over the years asked if we would be willing to do small Sunday night dinners at their homes.  Fully understanding how much pleasure this brings me, I said "of course"!

One of the dinners–

Passing

Guinea Hen Confit, Kohlrabi, Thyme

Jowl Bacon, Egg, Toast, Chive

Scallop, Sorrel, Pickled Beet

Seated

Baby Mizuna, Baby Arugula, Chestnuts, Parsnips, Pomegranate, Banyuls Vinaigrette– 48 Hour Farm Bread

Beef Short Ribs, Tiny Potatoes, Celery Root, Turnip, Carrot, Shallots, Young Kale– Sorghum Wheat Berry Bread

Appalachian Cheese, Walnut Cracker

Soft Gingerbread, Pear, Chocolate Sauce, Whip Cream, Cocoa Nibs

Tiny Cookies: Pistachio Coconut, Salty Rosemary Walnut, Chocolate Mint

Dinner Saturday December 10, 2011

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

photo Kate Headley

We hosted a Home Restaurant last Saturday filled with old and brand new friends...

Passing

Scallop on Potato with Sorrel

Jowl Bacon and Eggs on Toast with Chives

Pickled Beet with Chestnut

Flat Iron Steak on Kohlrabi with Caramelized Onions

Guinea Hen Confit on Sweet Potato

Roasted Brussel Sprouts and Broccoli

Bay Leaf Vodka Martini, (Domaine Brazillier) Coteaux du Vendomois Rose 2010

Seated

Lamb Shoulder with Kale Salad, Pumpkin Seeds and Watermelon Radish– 48 hour Bread

(Roger Perrin) Chateauneuf du Pape 2008

Delicata Squash, Black Walnut, Garlic, Chard, Oregon Truffle– Sorgum Syrup Bread

(Chateau de Roquefort) Provence BLANC "Genets" 2010

Rockfish with Corn Grits, Turnip, Celery Root and Carrot– Olive Oil Spelt Bread

(Chateau de Vaux) Pinot Noir "Les Hautes Bassieres" 2009

Gabietou Cheese and Cracker

Black Rice Pudding and Persimmon

Gingerbread, Frozen Chestnut and Chocolate

(Caves Jean Bourdy) Cremant du Jura Brut NV

Bites: Coconut Pistachio, Chocolate Mint, Salty Sweet Rosemary Biscotti

To Go: Chocolate Fig Bread

Today's Bread Class

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bread making photo by Erik Johnson from a sunny day...today, it was dark and rainy– perfect bread making weather!

An enthusiastic group came to 1508 this morning for a bread class–  it was fun.

We all kneaded bread, talked about gluten, different types of flours and grains, how to comfortably fit bread making into everyday life...and we made a whole lot of bread.

The recipes–

48 Hour Farm Bread

1 tablespoon fresh compressed yeast

1 ½ cup water at room temperature

1 cup whole wheat flour

2 cups all purpose unbleached flour

2 teaspoon salt

1.Combine yeast and water in a large bowl.

2.Add additional ingredients and mix until incorporated.

3.Cover with plastic and let sit in a warm spot for 48 hours.

4.Lay a dish towel out on a flat surface and dust generously with flour.

5.Dump dough onto the towel and make into 10 inch square.

6.Fold square into thirds, dust top with flour, cover and let rest for 15 minutes.

7.Fold in thirds using short end.

8.Brush off excess flour and gently stretch top layer over the seams visible on 2 sides of the dough.

9.Cover ½ of a clean dish towel generously with flour and top with several tablespoons of wheat bran.

10.Place bread on part of towel covered with flour and sprinkle top with more flour and bran.

11.Cover with the remaining half of the towel and let rise for 2 hours.

12.After 1 hour of rising place a 2 quart casserole (I use a Le Cruset, enamel covered cast iron pan) with a cover in a 500 degree oven.

13.After an hour remove cover, place dough in the casserole and cover and bake for 30 minutes, uncover and bake an additional 15 minutes.

14.Remove bread from the casserole and let cool for at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Cracked Wheat Bread

*¼ cup cracked wheat, soaked for 24 hours in 1 cup water

1 ½ cups warm water

3 tablespoons fresh compressed yeast

¼ cup good quality olive oil

¼ cup molasses, maple syrup, honey or sorgum syrup

¼ cup sunflower seeds

¼ cup flax seeds roughly chopped

¼ cup chopped walnuts

4 cups plus stone ground whole wheat flour

1 teaspoon salt

1.In a large bowl combine yeast and water.

2.Add oil, molasses (or other), sunflower seeds, cracked wheat, 2 cups flour and salt.

3.Mix until thoroughly combined.

4.Add remaining flour and knead until smooth, add a little more flour if sticky.

5.Lightly coat a clean bowl with olive oil, place dough in bowl and cover with a damp cloth.

6.Let dough sit in a warm spot until doubled, about 40 minutes.

7.Divide into two, shape into loaves and place in oiled loaf pan.

8.Put in a warm place, cover with a towel and let rise until doubled, about 30 minutes.

9.Bake in a 375 degree oven until top is browned and loaves sound hollow when tapped, about 30 minutes.

Foccacia

1 ½ tablespoon fresh compressed yeast

1 ½ cup stone ground whole wheat flour

1 ½ cup all purpose unbleached flour

2 heaping teaspoons of salt

about 2 tablesoons olive oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh oregano, rosemary or thyme

¼ cup roughly chopped olives (optional)

1 teaspoon medium coarse sea salt

1.Combine 1 ½ cups of water and the yeast, mix until smooth.

2.Add the flour and salt.

3.Knead this dough until thoroughly combined and then an additional 2 minutes.

4.Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

5.Cover with plastic wrap and leave to rise for 30 minutes.

6.Take a large baking tray, and lightly cover it in olive oil. Spread the dough on the tray, and create little indents with your fingers for the oil to soak in.

7.Coat top with a thin layer of oil and top with oregano, sea salt, and olives (if using).

8.Cook for 8-10 minutes in the oven.

9.Cut as soon as you take the focaccia out of the oven.

Pizza Dough

1 cup all purpose unbleached flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

1 1/2 cup 00 flour

2 tablespoons fresh compressed yeast

1 ½ cup lukewarm water

2 slightly heaping teaspoon of salt

1.Mix the flour and salt.

2.Dissolve yeast in the water and add to the flour mixture.

3.Knead this dough by hand until thoroughly incorporated and then continue kneading for 2-3 more minutes.

4.Cover with plastic and leave to sit at least 45 minutes or up to 24 hours.

5.Pat out dough by hand to desired thickness and cook in pizza oven or conventional oven at 450 on a stone.

No Recipe Bread (this is a rough recipe, start with this experiment and make it your own)

3 cups water

2 tablespoons fresh compressed yeast

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons finely ground sea salt

4 cups spelt flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

3 1/2 cups organic all purpose unbleached flour (exact amount determined when making)

Olive oil or olive oil spray for pan

1.In a large bowl combine water, yeast, sugar, and salt . Mix until smooth. Gradually add flour, about 2 cups at a time, switching back and forth between the spelt, whole wheat and the all purpose unbleached. Knead in flour after each addition.

2.When the dough can stick together as a ball take the dough out of the bowl and place on a clean surface. Knead the dough adding more flower until it stops sticking to your hands. Knead dough vigorously for about 2 minutes.

3.Place bread in a clean bowl and let rise at room temperature or place in refrigerator to use later.

4.When ready to bake you can bake in a loaf, in a boule shape, as a flatbread...in a 375 degree oven until the bread sounds hollow when tapped.

5.Possible additions are wheatberries, rosemary, nuts, seeds, olives...

Fried Chicken Mushroom!

Last week fried chicken mushrooms were available through the wild mushroom forager in Oregon that I often rely on when wild mushrooms are not available locally or I do not have the time to hunt for my own.  I had never heard of them before... They were delicious, fairly mild flavored with a slightly sweet and woodsy flavor and a meaty texture.  We served them roasted with spaghetti squash, celery root sauce, chickweed and a little bit of pickled beets.  I will order them again...and am wondering if I might be able to find them in the woods locally.

Local Huckleberries

When I saw huckleberries were available from the Amish cooperative Path Valley I immediately added them to my list despite the fact that I had no specific plan about what I was going to do with them.  Some became part of a pudding (recipe below) for a tiny first dessert course that I served with a salty rosemary walnut biscotti.  The remainder got cooked and sweetened with local honey, put in little jars and given away as to-go gifts for guests at last Friday nights Home Restaurant. I am now a fan of huckleberries!

Huckleberry Almond Pudding

1 cup huckleberries, cooked, pureed and passed through a fine sieve

2 cups almond milk

1/4 cup sugar or more if you want a sweeter pudding

pinch of salt

3 tablespoons cornstarch

In a small saucepan combine huckleberries, almond milk, sugar and salt.

Heat over medium heat stirring often until sugar is dissolved.  Remove from heat.

In a small bowl combine cornstarch with 2 tablespoons of water and mix until smooth.

Slowly add the cornstarch to the huckleberry mixture and combine thoroughly.

Heat over medium heat until thick, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens, about 5 minutes.

Pour into individual serving cups or 1 large bowl and chill until set, about 12 hours.

Home Restaurant, November 18, 2011

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo Kate Headley

Very much enjoyed our lively guests at Friday night Home Restaurant!

Passing

Brussel sprouts, pickled ginger

Lamb sausage, fig, carrot

Egg, jowl bacon, toast, sorrel

Rabbit, apple, corncake

Roasted tomato garlic soup

Chicken, sweet potatoes, grainy mustard

Lemon Thyme Vodka Martini

Seated

Flat iron steak, parsnip, broccoli greens

(Pierre Gauthier) Bourgeuil "Soif du Jour" 2010

Spaghetti squash, celeriac, chickweed, pickled beets, chanterelle and fried chicken mushrooms

(Thevenet) Macon Pierreclos 2009

Sablefish, stinging nettles, leeks, tiny potatoes, truffle salt, fennel

(Henri Jouan) Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grain 2009

Jasper Hill Harbison cheese with walnut cracker

Huckleberry custard with salty rosemary walnut biscotti

(Eudald) 'Familia' Brut Cava NV

Squash pecan pie chocolate sorbet and cocoa nibs

Cookies: Coconut cashew, chocolate mint, gingersnap

Take home

Seeded bread

Cooked Huckleberries

Pili Nuts?

Until very recently I had never heard of pili nuts...found them online at One Lucky Duck.  They are very rich and kind of buttery tasting– great for eating on their own, baking with or making into a smooth sauce.  I learned they are native of the Phillipines and grow in volcanic soil. They are healthy like most nuts but in addition contain a large amount of magnesium and Vitamin E as well as omegas and all essential amino acids.

Jura Wine Dinner

Last night we hosted a dinner at 1508 with Tom Calder, a wine broker from Paris and Tom Kiska, a wine importer who regularly helps us with our wine pairings at dinners.

All 11 of the wines were from the Jura region in France, 2 from the 1950's!!

Tom and Tom's combined knowledge is astounding, a wonderful group attended– a memorable night.

Passing

Rabbit with Apple on Carrot

Kobacha Squash Puree

Brussel Sprout with Pickled Ginger

Celery Root with Lemon and Argon Oil

Eggs with Jowl Bacon

(Caves Jean Bourdy) Cremant du Jura Brut NV

(Tissot) Cremant du Jura Brut Rose NV

Foie Gras Terrine on Brioche

(Tissot) Vin de Paille 2004

Seated

Cornmeal Soup with Parsnip and  Sorrel

(Tissot) Arbois Chardonnay "Classique" 2009

Scallops with Cauliflower and Vanilla, Salty Oat Bread

(Caves Jean Bourdy) Cotes du Jura Blanc 1992

Sweetbreads and Figs, Farm Bread

(Caves Jean Bourdy) Cotes du Jura Blanc 1953

Guinea Hen with Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes and Burgundy Truffles and Collard Green Sprouts, Multi-Grain Roll

(Caves Jean Bourdy) Cotes du Jura Rouge 1959

Lamb Leg with Chanterelle Mushroom and Wilted Romaine, Spelt Olive Oil Focaccia

(Caves Jean Bourdy) Cotes du Jura Rouge 1990

Franche Comte Cheese and Cracker

(Caves Jean Bourdy) Arbois Vin Jaune 2001

Chocolate Pudding with Chocolate Cookie

(Tissot) Trousseau Arbois 2009

Roasted Pear and Almond Sorbet

(Tissot) Cremant du Jura Brut NV

Cardoons

Cardoons from Path Valley Cooperative in Pennsylvania. To cook– slice (some varieties have sharp edges so take care when handling raw), bring salted water to a boil, add cardoons, return to a boil, drain.  Repeat this process until the cardoons are tender but not mushy, this usually takes 5 or 6 times.

At our last Home restaurant we made a salad with the cooked cardoons, wild capers, golden raisins, picholine olives, fresh parsley, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper– and served the salad passed on a warm corncake.

Bandol paired with Lamb, Basil Mashed Potatoes and Cipolline Onion

I often mention Tom a local wine importer who looks at each of our menus and helps us pair our food with wines from his fabulous cellar of small vineyard, primarily European wines. Last Friday night we served a dish of Whitmore Farms Lamb Chop, Leg and Sausage with Basil Mashed Potatoes, Braised Cipolline Onion and Chard from our backyard...with Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rouge 2003...the pairing was memorable.

More about the wine from Rosenthal the exporter of this Bandol...

There is the appellation of Bandol with its plethora of producers, some good, some mediocre; and then there is Chateau Pradeaux, the unique, inimitable, standard bearer for this ancient wine-growing district. The Chateau Pradeaux is situated on the outskirts of the town of St. Cyr Sur Mer which lies directly on the Mediterranean Ocean between Toulon and Marseilles. The estate is owned by the Portalis family which has owned this property since before the French Revolution. The domaine is currently under the direction of Cyrille Portalis, who continues to maintain the great traditions of this estate.

The vineyards are cultivated in as natural a manner as possible with reliance on organic methods. In fact, during the spring months sheep are permitted to graze in the vineyards thereby eliminating any need to use herbicides and at the same time providing a natural compost.

The wines of Pradeaux are brooding and difficult. Produced on the back of the noble Mourvedre, Pradeaux in its youthful stages is tannic, backward, and sometimes ornery. The wines are not destemmed; "elevage" in large oak foudres can last as long as four years; the essential blend is at least 95% Mourvedre; vines of less than 25 years of age are not used for the reds.

September 2011 Home Restaurant

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo Kate Headley

Friday night we had an open Home Restaurant, fabulous group!

This is what we ate and drank–

PASSING

Whitmore Bacon and Eggs on Buckwheat Toast

Cardoon, Golden Raisin, Young Olive, Fennel and Caper

Rabbit and Rhubarb Ketchup with French Breakfast Radish

Stuffed Squash Blossoms 

Roasted Shishito Peppers

Cold Beet Soup with Grain Yogurt

Scallop on Cucumber with Sesame and Ginger

Basil Lime Vodka Cocktail

(Chateau de Roquefort) Cotes de Provence ROSE 'Corail' 2010  

 SEATED 

Black Cod with Butterhead, Okra and Shallot Dressing

48 Hour Bread

(Tenuta Roveglia) Lugana Classico 2010    

 Baby Lima Beans, Green Tomatoes, Eggplant and Spaghetti Squash and Baby Collard Greens

Garlic Bread

(Villargeau) Coteaux du Giennois Sauvignon Blanc 2010

 Lamb Chop, Loin and Sausage with Basil Mashed Potatoes, Cipollini and Chard

Spelt Olive Oil Bread

(Ch. Pradeaux) Bandol Rouge 2003

 Mayor of Nye Beach Cheese and Cracker

 Zucchini Cake with Frozen Winter Squash and Candied Walnuts

(Tissot) Cremant du Jura "Indigene" NV  

Bites: Warm Chocolate Chocolate Chip Cookies, Celeste Fig

Take Home: Sesame Bread, Salty Rosemary Walnut Biscotti, Fresh Bay Leaves

Mash Celery Root

For the last five nights mashed celery root has been part of our dinner. This is not the first time that we have gotten stuck on a particular food and it often happens at the beginning of the season when the food is available for the first time after it has been out of season for awhile...I assume that once we tire of the mash we will move on to roasting, marinating...

Mash Celery Root

Celery Root

Favorite Olive Oil (we used Tuscan Laudemio)

Favorite Salt (we cooked with a fine ground French sea salt and finished with pink Himalayan)

Freshly Ground Black Pepper (we used tellicherry)

Peel the celery root and chop into roughly 1 inch cubes, the pieces need to be more or less uniform so they can cook evenly.  Place in a pot, cover with water, season with salt and bring to a boil.  Cook until celery root is tender when pierced with a fork. Drain the celery root, place in a high speed blender,  add olive oil, salt and pepper to taste and process until very smooth. Serve hot.

A few of my favorite things...in Paris

I just put a list together for a friend going to Paris later this month.

He has been there many times, knows the city well and has friends to visit and events to attend...I made this list of some of my favorite in between places...in any case making this list has made me desperate for a trip to Paris...

Here is the list–

...First of all you may already do this but last trip to Paris was the first time I used my iphone to map from destination to destination, since Paris is all about walking ...it was especially helpful in the old neighborhoods when streets tend to go in circles and having a sense of direction basically does not help at all!

Neighborhood Canal St-Martin

This is where that Tete dans L'Olives store is...about a 10-15 minute walk from most other stuff in the neighborhood, they do have a tiny 8 seat restaurant but meal or no meal I think it is worth a visit just because it is truly one of a kind place.

Le Verre Vole (food and drink), eat, drink or food to take away.

Maybe my favorite bakery in Paris...but that would be hard to say, Du Pain et Des Idees

Specific streets to wander, some independent retail mixed with stores like APC– Rue Marseille, Quai de Valmy, Quai de Jemmapes...

Neighborhood North Marais

Leave some time to wander, there are people making things mixed in with an overwhelming amount of restaurants, cafe, retail...after awhile you might say...not another $2000 robot in an old refrigerator being used as a display case, next to a hand printed tee-shirt, next to a set of pencils I cannot live without, next to the coolest jacket I have ever seen...you get the idea– jewelry, vintage, young designers, food...

wander the streets of – Rue du Vieille du Temple, Rue Charlot, Rue de Poitou, Rue Debelleyme and all the little streets near by

a new favorite clothes line discovered on last trip is Venus et Judes 22 rue Debelleyme (wearing their jeans this second)

Merci, 111 Bd Beaumarchais ( a little walk from above streets...could be a combination or a separate destination), Not only is it a solidly good store in a very thought out way...100% of profit goes to charity!!

Two of my favorite farmers markets

Bastille Market open Sunday and Thursday, Lebanese guy makes these sandwiches on dough that he rolls out on this thing that looks like a gigantic pasta maker and then cooks on metal drums, soap maker, salt guy, where I always buy Salt Gris to take home (all three of these spots are closer to the Bastille end of the market)

Marché des Enfants Rouges, not open Mondays and closes mid-day, Small semi covered market I adore, good to get lunch, picnic tables available for eating

A Museum...again there are so many but this is one you might miss...

Musee Carnavalet, Most random Paris history museum.  Kind of like someones basement that happens to be filled with random old stuff from Paris...I expect at some point it will be redone but it is beautifully not put together right now.  Located in a fantastic building with memorable garden.

Object Oriented Cookery, Collapse Journal

John had his first article published in a philosophical journal, Collapse...exciting!  His piece deals with practices he has been contemplating for years, molecular gastronomy and slow food– and his studies at European Graduate School and  Object Oriented Ontology of Levi Bryants, Larval Subjects.

- In Object Oriented Cookery, Chef John Cochran proposes a culinary practice that opens itself to non-human participants. Chefs, like philosophers, have "ontological commitments" determined by their praxis, and which distort the objects they work with. Cochran critiques the radical claims of contemporary food movements that claim to break out of normative models of cookery - Molecular Gastronomy and Slow Food - and asks what a "flat cookery" could be.

An excerpt from the article–

Therefore, cookery becomes an elegant configuration of entities in a feed-forward-feed-back clumsily-woven web of objects interacting on equal footing. If we do not know what a specific food can do, and this food is interacting with all sorts of other objects at a specific instant, then even in a radically closed environment, cookery becomes a lot like surfing. It consists of a series of tiny adjustments, prompted by anticipations and responses from an openness to utterances from all human and non-human actants entangled. Of course, in order to prevent short circuits, a chef must allow herself to be translated by other objects. In feeling her way through, aesthetics forms a new epistemology where the abundance of local manifestations forms a meal. Keeping in mind that the entanglement that constitutes this meal does not begin or end with this specific event of eating – objects stretch out through other objects. Anticipating objects’ behaviours and responding to both expected and unexpected acts, even the most experienced chef benefits by adopting the disposition of an amateur home cook. A disposition which is simply a commitment to objects being out of phase.

For the rest of the article you can purchase the journal through Urbanomics, or let us know and we will pass it along.

Slovenian Salt

On a recent trip to San Francisco we discovered Piran Salt from Slovenia at one of our favorite spots Boulettes Larder.

A little research uncovered that the salt has been around for a long time and is still harvested using techniques that are more than 700 years old.   The salt is actually scraped by hand from the salt basins in Secovlje Salina Nature Park on the Adriatic coast.

– our new favorite finishing salt...last night we used it to season roasted green tomatoes.